New Fash Mags

The day The Face magazine fell was a dark one. As fashionistas
gave a collective sigh and the media moaned the end of an era, a wave
of uncertainty washed through the publishing world. It was not a time
to rejoice. However, its failure did carry with it one harsh
modern-consumer lesson: A magazine cannot be all things to all people.
It is a lesson that is showing all the signs of being understood.

Over the past year a proliferation of magazines have launched worldwide. From a political fashion publication in Sweden, Livrasion, to VERYeye2eye,
which celebrates accessories in London, they are willingly filling the
gaps left behind by mass publications. However, unlike those
publications , these newcomers have one distinct quality that makes
them appropriate for right now: They know their niche.

One such niche is the men’s market, particularly targeting the
gentleman types. Thanks to their ever-increasing aestheticism, the
market is now ripe for the taking — and publishers are pouncing. In the
UK, Condé Nast is following EMAP’s lead with the launch of their own
bi-annual style guide under the GQ banner — think smarter, sharper and sleeker version of the monthly mag — while the hip kids at Dazed and Confused are putting a masculine spin on Another Magazine with Another Man. Meanwhile, in the Netherlands, the witty guys at Butt are releasing Fantastic Man — a more mature publication, which promises to feature men in clothes as opposed to models wearing nothing.

Another section of the market that’s being targeted is real people.
Laugh if you like, but in terms of publishing (and marketing) this area
is taking off. Real people are those informed individuals who have
grown tired of being sold manufactured dreams and instead are looking
for authentic magazines that speak their language. Good for Nothing is one such magazine. The brainchild of former Sleaze Nation editor and Shoreditch Twat
instigator Neil Boorman, it is halfway between a lifestyle and graphics
magazine, with broadsheet quality journalism (think cringingly accurate
London-centric cultural commentary), and fashion courtesy of
sport-meets-street stylist Cynthia Lawrence John.

Marmalade
falls into the same approachable and gutsy category with a focus on
international trends and ideas. Published bi-monthly, it is committed
to showcasing, supporting, and projecting new creative talent (works by
Nick Knight are shown alongside that of a student) and exploring the
magazine medium (their grid-defying, Quark-free art direction has
gained serious caché since its launch). Unsurprisingly, they have been
chosen as Selfridges creative partner for the season.

There are of course two sides to every coin, and while these magazines
are getting down with the people, yet another cluster of them have
launched that take readers right into fashion fantasyland. Squint,
the latest to come out of Hamburg, is a textbook case. Its philosophy
is simple: exquisite, emotive fashion and landscape images. More
consumer-based but equally aspirational are Vitals Woman and Australian Vogue Girl.

Finally, there are the magazines which, although marketed at an
international audience, act as a design showcase for the chosen country
(or region) of publication. Litkes is Swedish and Sam
is English, and both are entirely fashion-focused, with quality shoots
(using country-specific designers) and analytical, dissertation-type
articles. And from the publishers of Big Magazine, Something in the Way focuses exclusively on New York expression in fashion, art and music.

A solid voice and a targeted audience are clearly the important components of any 21st century magazine.

By Gudrun Willcocks.

Taken from the current issue of the JC Report Newsletter. Republished with kind permission.