Site Visit : Earnest Sewn & Cut, NYC

Brendan put down his cup of tea and told me that all the machinery in the store was working and then told me about the concept of the brand where they mix a traditional American work aesthetic with the Japanese system/philosophy of Wabi-Sabi. Wabi-Sabi is the beauty of things imperfect, impermanent and incomplete. He showed me the stitching which he told me was uneven (although I couldn’t see it) and and he talked about how Earnest Sewn took influence in how early Americans used to make their own garments.

I commented about the contrast between the authentic feel of the store and the plastic monstrosity of the new Puma concept store up the street. Brendan talked about how the values of the owners affected everything the brand did and that manifested itslef in the way the store looked and was run. How refreshing, I thought.

The store includes a cafe area and yes, I even saw some decks (well your jeans might take over an hour to make on a good day). Yes, there’s something a little lofty about the attitude of the store when you walk in but when you consider the soul that’s put into the items, you think it’s worth it.

In contrast, I was dismayed last week how out of touch the NY Times was when they published a story that ran like ‘Shock: People buy jeans for over $200!’ The American attitude towards fashion items like denim has been harmed by the flooding of cheap denim into the market from dodgy Asian sources by people like GAP – many Americans, I feel, can;t see the point of spending more than $40 on an apparel item they probably wear more than anything else. Earnest Sewn American made and crafted jeans start at $170 and can be tailored and customized. I’ve always felt that many people, especially Americans, are hesitant about customization of their look – and Brendan told me that they too were surpirsed too about how many folk came in and ordered their pairs customized. There’s now a 2 week waiting list for any pair of jeans.

In addition to the full jeans line, the store will stock the An Earnest Cut and Sew sportswear line in June, and accessories from other vendors, including Carpe Diem shoes and Holland & Holland bags. A 400-square-foot room in the back of the store will serve as a seasonal boutique, where brands and retailers will be invited to set up a temporary in-store shop.

Well worth checking out for inspiration and a new pair of slacks. And by the way, Brendan’s line ‘Noah’ was hanging up very proudly in the back there when I visited.

Earnest Swen & Cut, Washington Street (c/o Gansevort), New York City

Earnest Sewn

Previously published on PSFK