February 28, 2006
Interview With Jamie Salm Of Mioculture
A new wave of thinking has gained more tangibility in
recent years and everyone is jumping in to find a way
to contribute to this Viridian culture. Whether it is
Steven Speilberg’ and Tom Hanks driving Toyota
Prius’s, magazines like Elle and Vanity Fair producing
green issues or designers like Jamie Salm adapting a
sustainable, responsible approach to his products –
for once, joining the trend and going where the river
flows is not a bad idea.
We first met Jamie Salm at a Dan Pink speech in
Philadelphia last year. A soft-spoken youth, with
piercing intelligent eyes, Jamie’s face or name
(pronounced as Hay-me)is hard to forget.
A Columbian native and an industrial design graduate
from Philadelphia’s University of the Arts, Jamie
started MioCulture in 2001. Founded on strong
principles of sustainability and eco-intelligence, his
products demonstrate responsible thinking and
environmental advantages. Like the reusable tiled
wall-paper made of waste or the multi-use Bale chairs.
The climb has been steep and rough– but today
MioCulture boasts of an impressive portfolio having
designed for Bloomberg and Anthropologie.
Eco: Were you always environmentally conscious?
Jamie Salm: No. Not in the sense I am now.
Eco: What changed you? What made you re-consider your
options and decide on your current design philosophy?
Was there a defining moment?
Jamie Salm: There were many defining moments. All
economic acticity has ecological impact. There were
several projects I did as a student in school that
made me realize the very importance of sustainable
design in our daily lives. (His college thesis was,
“furnishings made of waste-paper) And after that, it
was just a matter of common sense. You know? When I
was thinking what am I going to dedicate my design
to… it was a obvious choice that it had to be
eco-friendly. That it had to be responsible.
Eco: Has it been difficult to sustain your business
because of your philosophy? Were you ever forced to
compromise?
Jamie Salm: At times it is difficult to explain to
people my ideas and what I am doing. But I understand
that people haven’t had the opportunity to look at the
world the way I have. My education, my experiences….
So it becomes a matter of working within their frame.
Its not as much about telling them what they are doing
is wrong, but its more about encouraging them to do
right.
Eco: There has been a major shift in the collective
consciousness of the design and architectural
community about sustainability and responsibility in
the last couple of years. What caused it?
Jamie Salm: We opened shop in 2001 and our first
collection of products featured in 2003. During tha
time, there was not as much retail-based interest in
sustainability. There are several reasons why this
shift has occured. First off, it has to do with the
perception of value of a thing. When designers are
designing something, they think, how do I add value to
this? It is possible to create anything today– the
challenge lies in how we create it, in asking.. why
should we make it? Ethical questions about the
products have become more important than the product
itself.
Ofcourse function plays an important role but now
designers are thinking — if I can choose to make
something, why not make it better? why not make it
eco-friendly?
And it’s not about feeling guilty, it is about making
your contribution.
….. whats your contribution?
Interview contributed By Jinal Shah
February 16, 2006
Interview With Woody From Sneaker Freaker Magazine
(Originally published September 05)
From
his base in Australia, Woody runs one of the most influential youth
magazines in the world. Everyone from young kids to aging hipsters seek
out his hard to find journals in the underground boutiques of the
world’s favorite cities. IF took time with Woody to understand the
spirit behind his business and also his views on today’s cultural
landscape.
Tell me a little about Sneaker Freaker.
SNEAKER FREAKER started in 2003 and is the first and only international
sneaker magazine to document the modern footwear craze as a global
phenomenon. The magazine is only produced twice a year (usually in June
and November) and is sold into the best stores in something like 25
countries. At around 140 pages and with only a few ads, that means
there’s always a shitload of shoes to go nuts about! And it’s printed
on 90gsm uncoated paper which feels nice and won’t leave your sticky
fingerprints on all the killer photos…
OK, so what’s inside?
In
each issue you can expect to find well written and researched stories
on all aspects of sneaker culture – such as interviews with shoe
designers, guides to the best stores in Asia, Europe and the USA, new
product reviews, custom sneakers, dozens of fresh styles, rare vintage
kicks, skate stuff, performance gear roadtests, news of collabs, artist
series and of course, all the super hard to get shit. We cover all the
big guys like Nike, Puma, Pony, Onitsuka, New Balance, Vans and adidas,
as well as all the obscure Japanese brands and the indies like Creative
Rec, RTFT, Feit and Pointer.
Since we started of course, some have followed in our foot steps.
But I hope Sneaker Freaker is regarded as a righteous and intelligent
product. We delve into sneakers at a level fashion mags can’t. We
represent the soul and the conscience of sneaker freakers. That’s
because we are what we do, and we don’t do it for any other reason than
our own satisfaction.
Some people might say that there are enough contemporary lifestyle
magazines out there already? What makes you different/special?
Well, I’d suggest we’re not a contemporary lifestyle magazine. That sounds like Wallpaper to me, it’s almost a diss!
Sneaker Freaker is a mag about sneakers. We don’t have fashion or
music reviews or stuff about films, just sneakers. I think having such
a pointy focus means we are unique, rather than just another member of
the throng. Why would you start a new fashion mag – doesn’t the world
have enough of those already? How would you stand out? I am only one
person but I have somehow managed to get this magazine out to people
who love it. That’s special to me.
Who reads your magazine?
Anyone who loves shoes, young kids, old heads, industry types, girls
who wanna know what kicks to buy for their beloveds. I feel there is an
impression the mag is just read by real nerdy shoe heads but I know for
a fact that the magazine is so persuasive, all kind of peeps can dig it
and in fact, most of ‘em end up hooked! I make sure the content is
progressive and focuses on the nitty gritty but I’m also mindful not to
bore newbies with terminology and minutiae that excludes people from
joining in on the scene.
You say your magazine has an international readership - what’s
going on in their minds / what trends are taking place - especially at
a global level?
I think the biggest trend at the moment is this obsession with being
first. First to know, first to have, first to jump on board, first to
get off, first to consume, first with the new gadget or the latest
lingo – everybody wants to be recognised for being one step ahead. I’m
not so sue about all this early adopter marketing hoo haa. It’s like
being a cool hunter is a worthy thing when all you have to do is keep
an eye on a few dozen blogs, which in reality is so easy you can do it
from your arm chair. It’s not a bad thing per se but I suspect it’s
partly about the value of information and partly about consumerism, or
attaining status symbols. I find it weird that people pay so much money
for objects like sneakers, but it amuses me and it generates discussion
and I enjoy that aspect. Why is a painting worth $50 million? Why is a
sneaker worth $10,000? There is no real reason other than someone
desires it as a status symbol, which is totally secondary to thinking
of it as an investment or as a beautiful object.
How does the content you publish reflect that?
I travel once or twice a year and do interviews and meet people and
find out what they are doing and thinking and wearing. To be honest,
when it comes to sneakers, there isn’t a great deal of difference
between where the kids are at in Harajuku, the lower east side, Brick
Lane or downtown Melbourne. As far as the feel of the magazine goes, I
doubt anyone could look at the content and say for sure where the
magazine is from. (Except for my cynical Aussie sense of humour which
sometimes confuses people, especially Americans who aren’t used to
anyone saying the opposite of what they really mean). We have writers
just about everywhere and the coverage is global. But that’s also why I
put ‘made in melbourne’ on the cover – to show I’m representing to all
sneaker heads, but even more so, in a global sense, my compatriots from
Melbourne and the rest of Australia.
Tell me about some non-sneakerbrands that you think are connecting in all the right ways to the audience?
Um…. Apple! That ipod campaign was brutally effective. I like what
Chysler does with design, their new cars are fucking awesome. There’s a
local fashion brand here called Tsubi which just opened a store in NYC,
they are a powerful force on a local tip. They made an entire nation of
kids wear all those fucked-up jeans and pay $400 for them. You have to
be a genius to do that. I think Vice magazine is incredible – so
hardcore and yet conservative corporates looking for an edge seem to be
all over it trying to soak up a little NYC junkie pervert chic. I think
Paris Hilton is incredibly influential with her audience. She is teflon
tough that girl - nothing can sour her milk. I see her, for better or
worse, as one of the most seminal (pun intended) media characters of
this decade and extremely important when it comes to clothes, attitude
and porn.
You’ve just been on a tour to promote the new magazine. Give us
some insight into how a publisher promotes their magazine these days?
You just get out there and do it. In all honesty, we haven’t spent a
cent on promotion other than sending a few copies to people we like and
travelling. That’s the simplicity of having a popular web presence –
people come to you and they absorb your message, whatever it is. Aside
from that, I work my nuts off to create a product that people really
love. To me, promotion is about two things, letting people know you
exist and secondly, getting them to buy something. It’s so much easier
when they find you and they want what you’ve got.
Tell me about the book you’re publishing off the back of the magazine? Why publish a book when you have a magazine already?
Penguin
USA offered us a deal and it was about as complicated as that. As an
independent company with no resources, the opportunity to work with a
big American company like them was a no-brainer. There’s thousands of
hours work in the book from a creative point of view but I’m happy to
sit back and watch their sales machine operate and catch a draft off
their ability to put our product into every Mom and Pop book store in
the US. The Book is a greatest hits of all the early issues of the
magazine that are now well and truly sold out. Issue 1 and 2 have been
selling on Ebay for something crazy like seventy bucks. That means
people still want it - now they can buy a book instead. It’s cheaper
for sure.
I’m going to ask you a dumb question: Publishing from Australia -
doesn’t that give you a disadvantage in the fast moving world of
fashion?
That’s a really dumb question. (bad joke warning). It does and it
doesn’t. If we didn’t have email down here we’d be toast – no doubt.
But with all this useless crap and important info that’s flying around
the web, it doesn’t matter anymore where you are at geographically. I
think if the Snkr Frkr office was located in NYC we’d be a larger brand
with more sales and advertising revenue but that’s just speculation as
there is a downside as well. It’s probably cheaper to produce a
magazine from down here but with oil the way it is, freight is getting
seriously expensive.





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