Show Report: London Fashion Week

Feb 14-19 2006

Media vultures that once muddied the name of London fashion, now say the kooky and lively designs of its new talent are the future of fashion. London Fashion Week fringe projects such as Fashion East, On/Off, New Gen and Fashion Fringe have been largely responsible for the growth of new designers in the UK. But this is not enough – Colin McDowell of The Times Style Magazine  reports on the creative binary between New York and London – his thoughts suggest the two cities should exchange ideas.  However, London Fashion Week shows have increased from 15 to 48 over the past 12 years, support has grown with Canon as principal sponsor and the most influential woman in fashion – Anna Wintour blessed the city with her ethereal presence  – London Fashion Week now shines brightly -  this is mostly due to the attention its new talent attracts. Michelle Morton-Banks reports on London’s ‘emerging’ Fashion Week…

Victorian Chic
The first day of London Fashion Week got off to an elegant start with Fashion Fringe winner of last  – ERDEM. Against the backdrop of Raphael paintings, in the Victoria and Albert Museum, models with red lips and smoky eyes adorned the breathtakingly sensual A/W ’06/07 collection by Erdem. This collection reinforced Erdem’s design identity – pleats of endless chiffon and satin, intricate Victorian prints, elaborate necklines often tied with large bows, dresses with fitted waists accentuating a woman’s form.  Often using dramatically long lengths, or alternatively to the knee – the collection had a distinct French feel and every piece was ultra feminine. Especially so, the off-the-shoulder black coat dress with double-breasted front. Black was not the overriding colour – fresh canary yellows, greys were intermingled with delicate creams.  Millinery, a key factor of the collections impact was created by the ‘inherently flattering’ designs of NOEL STEWART.   

The Power of Flower and Paisley
Another relatively new kid on the block was ex Roland Mouret student JEAN PIERRE BRAGANZA – the On/Off candidate’s most impressive feature was two and three piece suits of Paisley embossed fabric, his designs often played with volume – drainpipe slacks with a low crotch and over-sized biker style jackets – not a look for the smaller male. The PFSK favourite? The flower print mens/womens suits of warm reds and oranges – another attempt to blast away the colour sobriety this Autum/Winter became known for.

East Goes West
But the real fashion buzz was created towards the end of fashion week, in the Bluebird Conran Restaurant on Kings Road – Fashion East.  Since 2000, Director Lulu Kennedy and her team have pushed the project to the upper echelons of elite street fashion. First from the Fashion East set was MARIOS SCHWAB – know for his collaborations with stylist Tal Brener, Marios Schwab’s collection was full of conviction – think of an upbeat version of Robert Plant’s girls ‘Addicted to Love’  – knee high, fitted dresses in greys, blacks sliced with vibrant reds and maroons – split length dresses with scoop neck-lined pushed the collection into fashion futures, decadently accessorised with chokers – an 80’s eveningwear feel without the Dynasty tack.  Second on the Fashion East catwalk – SPIJKERS EN SPIJKERS – the Dutch twins, influenced by the 1920’s, presented another uber feminine collection – a mixture of satin pencil skirts and pretty dresses varying in length from mid thigh to above the knee, blacks dissected with creams and what seems to be the signature colour of A/W’ 06/07 – turquoise. Accessories mainly were the per usual for this Autumn/Winter – black socks.   MEADHAM AND KIRCHOFF also made an appearance under Fashion East – this collection showed a maturity from previous gothic designs – womenswear was surprising ladylike given a twist with doc Martins and knee high socks – menswear was more dramatic – impactful Clark Kent Macs and volumous suits.

King Of Prints
Jonathan Saunders, who is fast leaving the title of ‘emerging’, caused a media stir at London Fashion Week. A long time has passed since Saunders was creating prints for Lacombe presentations. Now Saunders is producing capsule collections for Topshop yet is still able to position himself as a high end phenomena – normally new designers do not have the strength to achieve this in the embryonic stages of their career, Saunders achieves this balance with ease. The A/W ‘06/07 womenswear collection was luxury personified – he did not abuse his known skill of print technique, this time an equal focus was laid on Silhouette. Surprisingly, Saunders didn’t follow colour trends with other designers – his collection was predominantly black and subtly played with powder blues and occasional reds. A beautiful use of fluid moving fabrics Saunders overall look was on of, yes you guess it, feminine.

The key to this coming season is for women, is ultra sharp but ultra feminine, and for menswear is the same in a gender reverse. No defining epoch to draw from – SPIJKERS EN SPIJKERS offered the 1920’s while Schwabb gave us the 80’s. Turquoise, blacks, creams and greys – sometimes mixed together. The most desirable feature of collections was daringly long lengths, best illustrated by Erdem.  Accessories almost outshone the garments themselves; an abundance of leather gloves, often rouged to the elbow, black knee high socks to over the knee, crumpled or pulled tight. Lace-up leather brogues with perforated detailing. Buckled belts over blouses and jackets. The key here is to embody diversity and remember the underpinning element for a stylish person is to not follow a herd of fashion fads but to be inspired by the many boundary-bashing designers the UK has to offer – no Paris Hilton or other annoying A-listers  – simply talented designers.