Nic Middenway, the owner of Sutake sat down with PFSK reporter Alex Singh and found 3-legged jeans are not on the trend barometer but giving to charities is.
It’s a known fact that the premium denim market is saturated. And so there is little space for new Denim labels to carve themselves a niche. New Australian label Sutake Denim takes this challenge head on – to diversify itself from other denim brands it draws upon the culture, trends, social ideals, and art of the South Pacific. Denim is simply the label’s canvas.
PSFK: Where did your get your name?
NM: Sutake means tough and is taken from the language of the Lakota, an American Indian tribe which is a member of the family of the Great Sioux Nation of North America.
PSFK: Where did the association with “Sutake tribe” start?
NM: The initial inspiration came from the islands of the South Pacific and specifically the Solomon Islands at the turn of last century.
PSFK: Your fashion label contributes to an aid program what was the deciding factor in that decision?
Many factors went into the very easy decision for Sutake to support Aid programs that needed help. You only need to open a newspaper or turn on a television set to see that, although we pride ourselves on being a civilised society, it seems that modern health and education resources were missing in some very important parts of the world. A lot of these regions housed the very diverse and beautiful cultural regions that have inspired Sutake. I wanted to do something to help preserve these cultures whether they are in the South Pacific, Africa, South Africa or South America. To contribute whatever we can to help would also be a way to repay the very source of my inspiration for Sutake. The Australian Foundation for the People of Asia Pacific (AFAP) is a non-government, non-religious organisation that works tirelessly, providing education and support to regions that need help. The work they do is very much a low-impact approach to the communities they help. They do not attempt to alter cultural beliefs but rather integrate modern health and education practices into existing cultures.
PSFK: When did the label begin?
NM: The Sutake label started in essence, in 2004 with an initial denim range going into stores in August that year. Sutake has been kept deliberately low-key up until now.
PSFK: And how has it evolved since its inception?
NM: Hand finished original jeans have now become the trademark of Sutake maintaining a strong connection to the tribal imagery that inspired the brand initially. And today Sutake is launching a more accessible men’s and women’s denim range without compromising its unique look and feel.
PSFK: What plans do you to expand the label?
NM: There are current plans to take Sutake offshore with showings booked in both Hong Kong and Europe at the end of the year. Sutake now includes a Tee Shirt range for both Men and Women and winter will see denim jackets included in the range.
PSFK: What themes run through the upcoming Spring/Summer line?
The range that will be going into stores in Spring/Summer this year is TRADER. Trader epitomises the way of life in the early 1900s when ships carrying nothing but clothing would dock at the various ports in the South Pacific and the seamen would trade clothing to the natives in exchange for island produce. Through photographs taken at the time, I could see how the natives would use improvised means to ensure their clothing lasted as long as possible by mending with string or patching. Inspired by this I have produced not only a new range in men’s denim but the first Sutake Girl’s range.
PSFK: Will you continue to draw upon tribal culture or look for a new area for inspiration?
NM: Sutake will never be about anything other than rich and raw tribal culture. I look forward to expanding into other regions in coming ranges and especially exploring the vast colour usages of central and South Africa.
PSFK: What is the central, personal ethos you put into each design?
NM: So long as each design I produce honors the Sutake ethos of raw, honest design, my own contribution to that is to ensure quality and find that fine line between listening to what the market is telling me.
PFSK: What advice would you give to people starting their own label?
NM: Believe in what you are doing and love what you are doing because it will take over your whole life and if you love doing it. Then, you’ll enjoy life too.
PSFK: What has been the biggest hurdle for you?
NM: Some idiot only put 24 hours in the day.
PSFK: What was the most unexpected problem you have had to face?
NM: This question. Also, how it would feel to 1,000 pairs of jeans like piled up on my lounge room. I did not know until they arrived.
PSFK: What are the upcoming trends or major changes you see in the premium denim market?
NM: I don’t know this answer. But ensure that Sutake reflects current trends and I watch what the market is asking for. I don’t see three legged jeans catching on too soon though.
Sutake’s Spring/Summer “TRADER” range will be stocked in boutique retail stores around Australia.
sutake.com
Words Alex Singh
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