Dior brings Japonism- and Couture- back to Paris

The magnificent couture gowns sent down the runway by John Galliano for Dior yesterday had more than a slight flavour of geisha, as models with perfectly painted white faces were swathed in folds of rich fabrics and exotic colours in outfits intricately constructed of origami pleats, kimono jackets, obi belts, and Hokusai-inspired prints. The highly extravagant and elaborate outfits showed that the skills of couture are still very much alive, and demanded poise and grace from the models.

After a decade in his role at the most famous of fashion houses, Galliano is celebrating with a collection that clearly forgoes commercialism to return to the sumptuous ideals of couture, and harks back to the label’s New Look origins. Nipped-in waists, stiffened fabrics and pleated trains all made for elegantly beautiful ensembles which could well be imagined at a lavishly decadant ball. Unfortunately not a situation that often arises in the 21st century, but luckily that didn’t stop the fashion house from setting their design doyen free to excite us once again.

With the resurgence of interest around etiquette and manners thanks to a number of books, tv programs and schools, and the return of the young royals to the pages of many glossy magazines, Galliano looks to be holding a candle to the time when celebrity dressing was admired and emulated for its elegance, crafsmanship and majesty. The question now is whether he will adapt these ideas for a ready-to-wear audience and bring a well-needed change to the current fashion stagnation. Let’s hope so.