So everyone has been raving about the new Marc Jacobs show- and fashion.psfk is no different. Moving on from the girlie looks of the last season, the designer is expertly championing a return to elegance. The influence of the current resurgence in etiquette, deportment and all things aristocratic could be seen in the beautifully refined, ladylike outfits that showcased a wealth of luxurous fabrications, and came complete with wide-brimmed hats and delicate gloves.
The colour palette of softened navy, black and greys with accents of rich wine, maroon and mustard was shown across simple clothing shapes in longer lengths and finely tailored outfits. trousers are straight and clean (slim but not skinny), necklines were high, skirts were below the knee, and skin was nowhere to be seen. Even the eveningwear in high sheen satins, rich velvets and sequinned fabrics was sensible and subdued- yet still eminently wearable.
Hats seemed to be a key focus and thanks milliner Steven Jones whose wonderful fedoras with knitted wool crowns and structured cloche styles adorned the heads all but a very few of the models- watch out for copies of those hitting all the shops, along with the beautiful two-tone elbow-length gloves.
Clearly inspired by the elegance of the Twenties (cloche hats, drop-waisted dresses etc), the main focus of the collection however was Marc’s passion for the Seventies, saying of the era "It is everything I’ve always loved: boring, beautiful- and Bertolucci". If past seasons are anthing to go by, this collection will be a clear inspiration for the high-street. Susy Menkes‘ description of the show- "his collection announced the return of fashion, as in wearable pieces for ordinarily fashionable women" sets the bar high for discount retailers- how will they possibly translate this for the masses?
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WHAT about this dreadful Junior Fashion School collection is so good?….there are a few interesting pieces, but overall it looks like a (very successfull) atempt at getting press….this is the lest inventive collection ever….totally derivative + traced off retro second hand store clothes….UGH!
February 7th, 2007 at 7:10 pm
Len, I’d love to hear what you think of the Matthew Williamson collection I posted about on fashion.psfk a few days ago. I mean, everyone seemed to love Marc Jacobs and you hated it– everyone seemed to hate Matthew Williamson and I loved it, so would be interesting to hear your take!
February 7th, 2007 at 11:27 pm
Matthew Williamson’s collection certainly had some dreadful pieces in it…pants that could make even the most anorexic waif appear chunky. BUT, there were many innovative, chic pieces too, and his taste is certaily more original and sophisticated than Marc Jacobs. Marc should be sending royalty checks to all the designers collections he has ripped off.
February 11th, 2007 at 6:11 pm
i totally agree! amanda posted the pictures here (well, at the matthew williamson post), and chose ones that i wouldn’t exactly call representative of the whole collection. though there were certainly a few missteps, overall i loved the collection and his originality. marc jacobs was just “nice” – very retail-able, very sensible and sophisticated, but really NOT adventurous or fashion-forward.
February 11th, 2007 at 11:58 pm