The Capsule Show Proves An Easy Pill To Swallow

For two days this January, the sleepy but structurally magnificent Angel Orensanz Foundation was transformed into ground zero for new and cutting edge fashion as the second annual Capsule show descended upon New York’s Lower East Side. The neo-gothic center, which was originally built as a synagogue in 1849 and today serves as an event and performance space, was the perfect backdrop for designers and fashionistas from all over the world to show their new collections, meet prospective buyers, and talk about what inspires their eclectic wears. Capsule - which could be characterized as one part trade show, one part cool hunting ground- boasted an impressive 57 participating cutting edge menswear brands under one roof with everyone from Nike showing off their limited collections to new comers Chronicles of Never which can only be described as what it would look like if Ingmar Bergman were to design mens fashion- dark, exciting, and devilishly hip.

The first label I spoke to was New York based collection Barking Irons, which derives their inspiration from the same dirty air and bio-engineered drinking water as the rest of us in the boroughs. In addition to their finely drawn silk-screened shirts, the label also has a collection of accessories made from recycled spoons, molded into necklaces and rings of such famous sites as the Brooklyn Bridge and the Hudson River.

What Inspires Barking Irons fashions?

Barking Irons: We are always thinking about New York History in our collections, and using different events to inspire us. We like to keep it gritty, like the city. And the idea of what comes around goes around.

If you could have any famous figure, dead or alive, wear your clothing who would it be?

BI: It would probably be Walt Whitman, we actually based some of our collection from last season on him. [He then shows me a stark but naturalistic silkscreen based off the famous recluse.] Since this years an election year, we’re using Boss Tweed as an inspiration.

For sports fans, the collection No Mas is like Thanksgiving and the Superbowl rolled into one. The label, which boasts its own sports blog and online sports TV station, is constantly blending the world of fashion and entertainment, while making it fresh and exciting for fans of the game everywhere.

What was the idea behind No Mas?

No Mas: We wanted to give people some perspective on sports through new mediums and ideas. That was the inspiration behind putting out the magazine, and our collaborations with Puma and Grotesque magazine. We’re also working with local artists on some new ideas. Our founder, Chris Isenberg, used to be a former sports journalist so he’s always trying to integrate what he loves into the line.

PSFK: What do you think inspired Chris to go into the world of fashion? It seems like kind of a big departure from sports journalism.

NM: Chris has always been a diehard Mohammad Ali fan. Ali had this one shirt that Chris really loved so he decided to make one for himself. Then all these people started asking him where they could get one for themselves so he started making more. From there he branched out with his own ideas and the rest was history.

If you could have any famous figure, alive or dead, wear your clothing who would it be?

NM: Probably Patrick Ewing, he’s one of Chris’s favorites and we used him in one of our last promotional campaigns.

What’s in the future for No Mas and No Mas Magazine?

NM: We’re working on a documentary right now about four boxers in Brooklyn who are going to be in the Beijing Olympics. We’ve been following them in their training and it’s going to be a multimedia film with emphasis on the development of their stories. It’s something new for us, but pretty exciting.

Another line which has been charting new waters is the Danish label Pa:Nuu, whose neon designs and 80’s club kid appeal have created a cult following including It- model Agyness Deyn and singer/DJ MIA . Recently the label has collaborated with Nike ID and British retailer Topshop and has a project in the works with French electronica ingénues Justice. I spoke briefly with creative director Jacob Hoilund about Pa:Nuu’s plans for making the world a brighter place, literally.

If you could have any famous figure wear your clothing who would it be?

Jacob Hoilund: Hm, probably Gwen Stefani, I really like her style.

How would you say European fashion differs from the styles in the US?

JH: What we tend to do is more colorful, and a lot of fun.

Would you consider yourself New Rave?

JH: A lot of people think we are but no not really. We just do what we like to do.

While Capsule was host to many exciting brands, it was the Scandinavian designers who, by most accounts, dominated the show. Leading the pack of the new generation of fresh Swedish labels is Acne Jeans , whose sensible, sleek wears can be seen on movie stars and art students from Stockholm to Los Angeles.

How do you think being from Sweden inspires the brand?

Acne: Being from Sweden, I think the open-mindedness and the ability to create without limits comes naturally.

Where does the name Acne come from?

Acne: It’s an acronym- Ambition to Create Novel Expression.

If you could dress any famous figure in your clothes, alive or dead, who would it be?

Acne: Charlie Chaplin, because he’s always well dressed even when he’s wearing weird things.

So what’s up next for Acne?

Acne: We have always been working creatively in many facets. We have ACNE film - a series of short films and commercials, and we also have ACNE paper - our written publication. Then there’s ACNE Digital - where we create websites for other companies.

Also from Sweden was newcomer Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair, which is inspired by a shoe repair shop in London known for the special care and craftsmanship it showed its footwear.

How do you think being from Sweden inspires the brand?

FASR: I think there’s a certain type of aesthetic in Scandinavia. We like to keep things simple, and look more naturally- We’ve never been too excessive. We tend to be a bit more practical; maybe it’s because of our climate.

If you could have any famous figure wear your clothes who would it be?

FASR: [The two sales representatives debate this for some time in Swedish before coming to an agreement.] Simone De Beauvoir.

Then would Sartre sport the menswear?

FASR: [laughs] Yes, I think they would make a nice couple.

And last but not least, perfect for dealing with a harsh Nordic winter as well as the urban streets of New York is Gram, a Swedish based shoe design company who is schooling Americans on how to make fun and edgy footwear.

So where does the name come from?

GRAM: Basically, we weigh all the styles and then that’s what their name is. We wanted something simple and unique.

What is the inspiration behind Gram’s Fashions?

GRAM: I wanted to wear something similar to Air Force Ones, but without them making your feet look so big. We wanted to make something comfortable…something you could run to catch a bus in. We wanted to make something in between a hiking boot and a trainer, and something that wasn’t compromised. Also, instead of using recycled leather we use full grain, which most companies don’t do.

How do you think being from Sweden inspires your designs?

GRAM: Well! As you can see it’s in the product and the layout [pointing out two tables with rows of shoes laid out as meticulously as an IKEA showroom.] We are definitely part of the Swedish design aesthetic. Swedes are well known for doing well-made designs affordably. We really believe in affordability. It’s very good to be from Sweden right now.

-Contributed by Laura Feinstein