menu

Wine and Food Trends: The Complexities of Pairing

Wine and Food Trends: The Complexities of Pairing
Culture
Joris Peels
  • 30 june 2009

Roger says that in order for it to be paired well a wine “needs clear aroma and clear structure.” He likes “classic wines, aged more than 12 years” as these are typically “easier to match” and make for “a better match.” As an example of how the pairing process works he mentions a dish with roses, curry and licorice whose aroma pairs well with a Riesling. For “hunter food” such as hare he looks toward the Medoc and the “aroma of the animals and leather.” The pairing process is a painstaking search in aroma for him and his team – and they look to pair every dish. He concedes that “not all wines are suitable for pairing” and that “a complex wine will be difficult to match” but they try all the same.

Contrast this approach with that of Antonio Lopo, the excellent & amicable sommelier of Comerç 24. Besieged by the 23 different & tiny dishes in the Festival de Tapas menu at his restaurant and all the explosive, fun and exciting flavors therein, he believes in “a good glass of wine.” In some cases they have tried wine pairing but the “difficult magical flavors” of the food are “a barrier.” He also thinks that “wine pairing can be subjective” and prefers to advise wines that fit a palette. He likes surprising customers with new and unexpected wines. He sees a diner as being able to “enjoy the two styles, that of the food and that of the wine.”

These are two fundamentally different approaches. Both stem from the same general trends affecting the molecular, deconstruction & conceptual fine dining restaurants. With more dishes, more taste, more surprise, more fruit, more “what is that exactly”, more ‘wow’ & more innovation, the sommelier’s job is becoming increasingly difficult. The two contrasting approaches of Moo and Comerç 24 are the only way out for the sommelier. Either the sommelier has to take a short stroll into the kitchen and get involved in food creation as is Roger’s approach or he becomes the ultimate listener and discoverer as Antonio is trying to be. If a restaurant is not able to do either well the patron’s experience would be confusing at best.

I asked both men what the biggest trends in wine were. Roger spoke of the “full bodied red wines, such as cabarnets” with “thick flavors and lots of oak”, whereas the food and fine dining restaurants had increasingly “thin flavors, thin aromas.” He also mentioned “sherry wines that are light on the mouth.” Antonio focused on “aftertaste, it has to be fresh, it has to leave you fresh.”

With regards to the biggest single trend in their business both sommeliers were unanimous: wine by the glass. Both are seeing wine by the glass becoming much more common. Roger thinks it is partially because of “shorter lunches” and that people want to be perceived as healthy and so are buying less bottles. Both agree that people want to taste and experience many more different wines and that this is the main driver for the trend.

How long before we see one of those Enomatic machines in all the fine dining restaurants?

Joris is 31, lives in Amsterdam and loves to read, build, hack things, cook and talk to people. He is the Community Manager for Shapeways, the world’s only 3D printing community and marketplace. You can read more by Joris on the Shapeways blog or his twitter.
Culture
Trending

Japanese Face Wash Creates A Perfect Rose Every Time

Arts & Culture
Mobile august 26, 2016

Get A Better Idea Of How You Are Wasting Your Time

The TouchTime app is trying to revolutionize personal task management by providing detailed insight on how to be more efficient

Culture august 26, 2016

London Telephone Box Repurposed As A Tiny Mobile Repair Shop

Tools and supplies to replace broken screens or damage are neatly stowed away in these micro-workrooms

Trending

Get PSFK's Latest Report: Future of Retail: Technology Primer

See All
Design august 26, 2016

Conceptual Sportswear Created Out Of Futuristic Condom Material

A Dutch fashion designer is experimenting with new methods and fabrics to make high performance clothing

Fashion august 26, 2016

Fashionable Tassel Will Ensure You Never Lose Your Valuables Again

The device is fashion meets connected tech, that will help you keep track of your belongings at all times

Syndicated august 26, 2016

Would You Wear Wool Shoes To Save The Environment?

As demand for wool shoes grows, a number of US footwear brands are heading directly to the source: the sheep pastures of New Zealand

Sustainability august 26, 2016

Self-Healing Material Is Fashioned Out Of Squid Teeth

Penn State researchers have devised a new textile that uses organic proteins

Arts & Culture august 26, 2016

Search Engine Turns Your Own Drawings Into Photos

This image-matching software accepts hand-made sketches instead of keywords

PSFK LABS REPORT

Future Of Work
Cultivating The Next Generation Of Leaders
NEW

PSFK Op-Ed august 24, 2016

Why Building Better Offices Is The Key To Employee Engagement

Interaction Designer and Audio-visual Technologist at ESI Design illustrates the value in creating environments filled with surprise and delight

PSFK Labs august 25, 2016

PSFK’s Workplace Vision: How The Nurturing Of Seeds Will Come To Define The Onboarding Process

Our Future of Work vision is a service that allows companies to assemble and deliver welcome packets that are uniquely focused on the concept of growth

Arts & Culture august 26, 2016

Illustrator Interprets The Experiences Of Blind Travelers

Artist Alby Letoy creates drawings of poignant travel memories for the visually impaired

Advertising august 26, 2016

Clickbait Titles Used For The Good Of Charity

An agency devised an unlikely campaign that uses clickbait as a positive force to drive awareness to nonprofit initiatives

Advertising august 26, 2016

The Best In Eye-Catching Olympics Campaigns

PSFK rounds out the Rio Games with our picks for the best advertising moments off the field

Work august 26, 2016

Editorial Roundtable: The Arrival Of The People-First Workplace

Managed By Q, Soma, Workbar, Primary and thinkPARALLAX enumerate the reasons why companies need an employee-embracing workforce in order to exist

Arts & Culture august 26, 2016

Transforming Light Waves Into A New Art Form

An artist uses glass treated with layers of metallic coatings to create a unique installation called lightpaintings

INSIGHTS COVERAGE

Rio Olympics
Innovation Coverage From The Rio Games
READ NOW

Design august 26, 2016

This Windbreaker Lets You Explore The Outdoors While Charging Your Phone

The apparel includes solar panels that allow the wearer to stay connected through the power of renewable energy

Asia august 26, 2016

The Goal Of This Game Is To Not Get Laid Off From Your Job

A hit mobile app has you working really, really hard to not get fired as you climb the corporate ladder

Advertising august 26, 2016

Movie Critic Bot Guides Viewers Through Festival Offerings

The Toronto International Film Festival has created a Facebook Messenger chatbot to help attendants curate their schedule

No search results found.