menu

A Studio Visit With Evisu’s Scott Morrison

A Studio Visit With Evisu’s Scott Morrison
Advertising

Recently, PSFK paid a visit to Evisu's studio in Soho to see how their new CEO and Creative Director Scott Morrison was settling into the masthead.

Laura Feinstein
  • 3 february 2010

A Studio Visit With Evisu's Scott Morrison

Recently, PSFK paid a visit to Evisu‘s studio in Soho to see how their new CEO and Creative Director Scott Morrison (formerly of Earnest Sewn and Paper,Denim, Cloth fame) was settling into the masthead.  Residing in a cozy downtown loft populated by bustling designers and creatives Morrison seemed at home, and told us a little bit about the art and history of Evisu- as well as his vision for the brand.

PSFK: First off, how have things been going?

SM: It’s been a bit chaotic, but also a lot of fun.  Essentially we’ve completely overhauled  the brand itself and the management team.  There’s a collaborative approach to design and management and a re-dedication to the things that made Evisu great when it first began.  From the fashion standpoint, there are a few new elements: 1) the men’s collection which is based on heritage, denim and workwear inspirations, while 2) the Evisu Genes collection is driven more by current fashion and the international market. The third element is the introduction of a new woman’s collection, the first of its kind of Evisu, and a source of real excitement in the office and in the market right now.  Its incredible to see so many people passionate about contributing to this brand’s revival.

PSFK: What made you decide to leave your own company to take the reins at Evisu?

SM: It just felt that it was time to move on from Earnest Sewn, for a number of reasons.  But mostly due to the fact that I just wasn’t having fun.  Evisu came along almost immediately after, and as Evisu was ‘the’ brand in Japanese denim (and one of my greatest inspirations), the opportunity was simply too amazing to overlook.
I guess there are times when you reach a point where you want a different set of challenges, and after having the same thoughts everyday you have to make a choice, even if it involves leaving something you created.

PSFK: Do you think you could tell us a little about how the brand has evolved from its Japanese roots into what it is today?

SM: The Evisu I discovered was in 1997 or 1998, and it was a brand obsessive about authenticity, quality and maintaining this unyielding commitment to reinventing the lost art of connoisseur quality, American denim.  Evisu, along with a few other of the Osaka based brands (aka. the Osaka 5) were creating denim that stood apart from everything else in the world – including products coming from the USA and Italy.  As with most things, Evisu began to commercialize its success and in the mid-2000’s, Japanese street-wear labels like A Bathing Ape and Hysteric Glamour, started to build a following in the International market.  Brands like Evisu were pulled in with them.  Eventually most of the Japanese street-wear/denim labels became iconic urban  references and in the case of Evisu, much of what the brand stood for was completely lost on a customer that didn’t care.

A Studio Visit With Evisu's Scott Morrison

PSFK: In the last decade the denim industry has changed a lot- with Scandinavian brands stealing much of the US + Japan’s thunder. What do you think sets you apart from from some of the newer or more ubiquitous brands like Cheap Monday or Acne?

SM: There’s definitely been a shift towards skinny jeans and simpler washes, both of which hail from Scandinavian brands/trends.  We’ve definitely been watching what’s going on in Scandinavia, and most of Europe for that matter, and it’s impossible not to incorporate some of those themes into our designs.  Brands like Hope, Acne, Nudie and Cheap Monday all have their unique place as do we, but it is important to note how quickly denim trends have shifted from Italy to Japan to America to Scandinavia (all in the past 15 years).  What’s emerging now is a very heritage driven form of psuedo-Americana, where brands like Red Wing, Woolwrich Woolen Mills, and Filson are thriving, so it’s going to be interesting to see how things develop from here.

PSFK: Can you describe a little bit the process of designing a pair of jeans?

SM: The process really depends on the designer, but for the most part, with us, we start by trying to focus on newness and need.  What can we do that’s new, or is there an opportunity to do something new, use a new technique, new fabrication, etc.  We also try to find a need in the market, whether it’s girls wanting jean leggings, or guys wanting to move on from skinny jeans.  From there the process is usually straightforward.  Select your denims, start working on fit and designing the jean itself (what is it going to look like) and then develop the wash.  Sometimes this takes more time, and actually become the focus of the jean, and other times it’s just something to complement the design.

PSFK: Can you think of a celebrity or cultural figure which you could envision embodying the new Evisu?

SM: I can’t imagine any one person embodying the concept of Evisu, as I really think it’s about lots of different people, and designed to be multicultural and diverse.  If I had to pick an example of someone I personally admire or find inspiration in, someone I’ve always respected is Morrissey – whom I’ve outfitted for several of his US tours in the past few years.  He always seems to be relevant, and conveys a sense of timelessness and style which works amazingly well for denim.

PSFK: I know when you were at Earnest Sewn you came up with the concept store- any plans to come up with something similiar for Evisu? What new directions do you hope to take the company retail-wise?

SM: Right now we have about 30 stores between Asia and Europe, and I’d love to see us get something opened up here in NYC as soon as July, time permitting.  As far as a concept goes, I can’t imagine that we’ll do anything similar to what I’ve done in the past, but I do think that whatever we do it will be nothing short of inventive and relevant.  In the meantime I know we’re focused on updating our on-line retail experience and I would expect that exciting change in the coming season as well.

A Studio Visit With Evisu's Scott Morrison

PSFK: How is designing for women different than for men?

SM:The denim design process is essentially the same as men’s, although certain things like fit and finish (how the garment feels and looks) are a bit more important, and therefore emphasized.  But with Evisu we took a slightly different approach.  Rather than just design a denim line for women with a few tops and outerwear pieces thrown in for good measure, we decided to recruit a really talented young clothing designer, Catherine Holstein, to work on creating a women’s collection free of denim essentially.  At critical points in the process we would design and add  denim into the collection to make it cohesive, but denim wouldn’t be the overwhelming focus this season.  The first season using this process has produced tremendous results and we’re expecting big things for our women’s collection in AW10.

Thanks Scott!

Advertising
Trending

Editorial Roundtable: What A People-First Workplace Must Prioritize First

Work
Syndicated Yesterday

What Could The Highway Of The Future Look Like?

As technology for automated vehicles improves, there’s a sharper focus on building a ‘smarter’ infrastructure where they can thrive

Design Yesterday

Plastic Wind Trees Are Bringing Sustainable Power To Residential Homes

These French-made turbines are offering a small, aesthetically pleasing approach to affordable personal energy

Trending

Get PSFK's Latest Report: Future of Work

See All
Home Yesterday

Dyson’s Wi-Fi Connected Fan Purifies, Cools & Heats The Air

The new luxury home appliance aims to be an all-in-one device for the connected home

Education Yesterday

Bringing Virtual Reality And Telepresence Robotics To E-Learning

This Learning Management System is embracing new technologies to reallocate teaching resources to where they should be going

PURPLELIST EXPERTS

Anna Kaziunas France

Digital Fabrication, Coding

Advertising Yesterday

Brewing Company Turns Car Emissions Into Ink

Tiger Beer has created a sustainable process to transform air pollution into supplies for street art

Design Yesterday

Space-Saving Sofa Has Extra Furniture Hidden Inside

Living in an apartment with limited space? This three-in-one bed transforms based on your needs

Culture Yesterday

Browser Extension Blocks Any Pages That Make You Unhappy

The software can detect your facial movements and prevent content that brings up negative emotions

PSFK LABS REPORT

Future Of Work
Cultivating The Next Generation Of Leaders
NEW

PSFK Op-Ed august 24, 2016

Why Building Better Offices Is The Key To Employee Engagement

Interaction Designer and Audio-visual Technologist at ESI Design illustrates the value in creating environments filled with surprise and delight

PSFK Labs august 25, 2016

PSFK’s Workplace Vision: How The Nurturing Of Seeds Will Come To Define The Onboarding Process

Our Future of Work vision is a service that allows companies to assemble and deliver welcome packets that are uniquely focused on the concept of growth

Automotive Yesterday

Reserve Your Parking Spot Before You Even Get Behind The Wheel

A new Ford app allows drivers to select and arrange for a space in a garage to be available at the end of their journey, so they can travel worry-free

Work Yesterday

PSFK’s Workplace Vision: The Desk Is Becoming An Ecosystem Of Satellite Workstations

Our Future of Work vision is an app that frees employees from the tyranny of a static desk

Food Yesterday

A Tiny Amount Of This Powder Could Block All The Bitterness In Food

A new substance made from mushrooms can bond with taste receptors on your tongue to overcome unpleasant flavors

Asia Yesterday

Whimsical Dental Clinic Design Aims To Calm Patient Fears

Cheerful colors and a nod to the comforts of home are design elements tactfully aimed to help people relax

Mobile Yesterday

Messenger Service Only Delivers You Updates Three Times A Day

Formal is a new app designed to help people ignore the constant stream of texts from their phone and focus on what's in front of them

INSIGHTS COVERAGE

Rio Olympics
Innovation Coverage From The Rio Games
READ NOW

Design Yesterday

Movable Vacation House Constructed Using Concrete Boxes

The 4,000 square foot building is made up of modular frames so it can be relocated if needed due to coastline erosion

Design Yesterday

Redesigned Electric Fan Collapses For Easy Storage

Conbox can be kept in pieces and packed away when not in use

Ai Yesterday

LawyerBot Is Now Helping Homeless People Qualify For Government Housing

This robot helps people get out of parking tickets and provides free legal advice to those in need

No search results found.