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Designer Redefines The Gender Boundaries Of Menswear

InAisce's latest collection embodies juxtapositions that inspire a deepening understanding of masculinity.

Plus Aziz
Plus Aziz on February 26, 2013. @plusaziz

High-end menswear store ATELIER had a two-day trunk show for InAisce that coincided with the revealing of a sculptural art installation. The suspended large-scale textile installations were designed by tapestry artist Claudy Jongstra. Other collaborators on the actual Fall/Winter collection were Layer-0 and Artemas Quibble, whom had significant input on the shoes and belts.

The aesthetics evoke a refined sensibility that juxtaposes nature with the industrial, the highly technological with the primitive, as if one were looking at the middle ages through the lens of the Renaissance. Jona, the designer behind InAisce, locates the feminine within the masculine and tampers with gender boundaries by incorporating skirts and long flowing shirts into his work.

The title of the collection, Seeking Aether, conjures up myths surrounding immortality. A text showcased at the event reads:

the collection pulsates with vitality and refinement that simulate the longing for our immortal roots, yet carefully placed dissonant notes remind us of the displaced state of our species. This is manifested through individual elements of the collection.

Seeking Aether is similar to InAisce’s  previous work in that it feels like it’s referring to a previous time of hardships, but with a post-industrial sophistication to it. The text continues to describe how the juxtapositions manifest in the collection:

Similarly, the fabrications befit nobility and vagabond alike. Luxurious silks, wools, and cupros are juxtaposed with large felted wraps that evoke the hide of a wild highlands beast, and a plush nylon-coated knit, while soft within, resembles a worn industrial garbage bag on the surface.

Despite Jona’s disinterest in being “on-trend,” his experimentations are part of a bigger drive to elevate and break from the codes restricting what men can wear. The conceptual depth and strategic minimalist behind his work can be seen in a small group of fashion designers that are focused on conveying emotional dynamics that ultimately feed into how men can express themselves through their clothes and style.

ATELIER

TOPICS: Arts & Culture, Fashion
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+Aziz is a regular contributor and editor to PSFK.com. He is currently Senior Trend Analyst at FATHOM+HATCH and founding musician of The Music Parade.

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