A food critic argues that a focus on local, seasonal and organic won't feed the world's growing population.

In an opinion piece for the UK's Observer, restaurant critic and a novelist Jay Rayner counters the argument for local food. He says that small batch food will be luxury available for the middle classes and that we have to consider how to adapt large scale agriculture to feed our large populations with a diet that's healthy for us, the animals and plants we eat and the land they come from.

It's clear to me that we risk replacing a culture of a cheap and plentiful present with one of hyper-expense and scarcity in just a few years' time… Words such as local, seasonal and organic have become a holy trinity. But these are merely lifestyle choices for the affluent middle-classes, a matter of aesthetics, and nothing to do with the real issues.

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