Chef Dan Barber is unflinchingly proving that food waste can be deliciously repurposed

Few things in life are more shaming than poking around in the crisp box of your fridge (though one might be using the prissy and somehow very 70s term “crisp box” in the first place). For isn’t there always a heart-sinking moment at some point in the month when you reach down and pull up a stinking bag of yellowing kale, a too-bendy carrot, a tomato whose youthful blush has turned unaccountably to grey?

Yes, my cupboards are occasionally just as mortifying: the other day, in search of chickpeas, I put my hand on a can whose vintage appeared to pre-date the coalition. But it’s my fridge that most often admonishes me for my profligacy, guilt surging queasily up through my stomach and thence into my arms and legs the better that it might paralyse me just as I’m halfway to the bin.

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